Clothing Samples Explained: Proto, Fit, Salesman and PP Samples

Your factory says the first sample will be ready in three weeks. Then someone mentions fit samples, salesman samples and a PP sample, and you start wondering how many of these you're paying for, how long it all takes, and whether you're ever going to see bulk.

Sampling is the stage where most first collections either come together or quietly stall. I've been through it on my own menswear brand and I manage it every week at my development studio, with factories in LA and overseas. It's not complicated once you know what each sample is for and when to say "approved."

The clothing sampling process, in order

Most garments go through some version of this sequence. Not every brand needs every step, but the order is consistent.

1. Proto sample: the first physical version
2. Fit samples: one or more rounds to get measurements and fit right
3. Salesman samples (optional): extra units for photos, wholesale or pre-orders
4. Pre-production (PP) sample: the final check before bulk
5. Top of production (TOP) sample: pulled from the first bulk units, so you can catch problems early

What each sample is for

Proto sample. The first attempt at turning your tech pack into a garment. Its job is to check the concept: Does the shape read right? Do the details work? Is the construction what you meant? Protos are often made in substitute fabric because your real fabric isn't ordered yet. Don't judge color or hand-feel here. Judge silhouette, proportions and construction.

Fit sample. Made in your sample size, ideally in the real fabric or something very close, and tried on a real person or fit form. This is where you check measurements against your spec and how the garment sits on a body. Expect at least one round of corrections.

Salesman samples. Extra units of the approved style, sometimes in multiple colorways, used for lookbook photos, wholesale showrooms, trade shows or pre-order campaigns. Many direct-to-consumer brands skip a formal salesman run and just order a few extra fit-approved pieces for photos.

PP sample. Made with the actual bulk fabric, trims, labels and packaging, using the production pattern, ideally on the production line rather than in the sample room. This is your last chance to catch mistakes before hundreds of units exist. Once you sign off, the factory is authorized to cut.

TOP sample. A few units pulled from the very start of the bulk run. If something drifted between PP and production, this is where you see it while there's still time to fix the rest of the run.

How many rounds is normal?

For a simple style like a tee or a basic hoodie, one proto and one or two fit rounds is typical. For something structured, like outerwear, tailored pieces or denim with washes, two to four fit rounds is common.

If you're starting from a reference garment you already like, you'll often need fewer rounds. If you're designing a new block from scratch, plan for more.

Approximate costs and lead times

These vary a lot by country, factory, fabric and complexity, so treat them as typical ranges, not quotes:

• Pattern making (before the first sample): roughly $150–$800 per style, sometimes folded into the sample fee
• Proto sample: roughly $75–$400 per piece; domestic sample rooms tend toward the top of that range, overseas toward the bottom (plus shipping)
• Fit sample rounds: roughly $50–$300 per piece per round, plus pattern correction time
• Salesman samples: often 1.5–3x your bulk unit price per piece
• PP sample: frequently included or low-cost once you've committed to bulk, but ask

Lead times, roughly:

• Proto: 2–4 weeks, longer if fabric has to be sourced
• Each fit round: 1–3 weeks to revise and resew, plus shipping if overseas
• Salesman samples: 2–4 weeks
• PP sample: 1–3 weeks, once bulk fabric has arrived

Add it up and three fit rounds with international shipping can easily mean 2–4 months from first sample to PP approval. That's normal, and it's why starting the conversation early matters. A typical example: a simple pullover hoodie made domestically might take 3 weeks to proto, two fit rounds at about 2 weeks each, then 2 weeks for the PP sample. That's roughly 9–10 weeks of sampling before bulk starts.

Before you commit, ask each factory what sampling costs, how many rounds are included and whether sample fees are credited against bulk. Our factory questions list covers these.

How to write fit comments that actually work

Vague comments create extra rounds. "Feels too big" or "make it more relaxed" leaves the pattern maker guessing. Write comments against your points of measure (POM) so every note maps to a number.

For each fit round:

1. Measure the sample at every POM in your spec, flat, the same way the spec defines it.
2. Record spec vs. actual in a table, with the difference. Anything outside tolerance gets flagged.
3. Try it on a person (or form) who matches your sample size, and photograph front, side and back.
4. Write one change per line, tied to a POM, with a number.

Compare these two:

• Weak: "Body too long, sleeves a bit tight."
• Strong: "POM B – Body length HPS: spec 28", sample 29 1/4". Reduce to 28". POM F – Bicep: spec 7 1/2", sample 6 3/4". Increase to 7 1/2". Please keep sleeve opening unchanged."

Also note what's right: "Shoulder and chest approved, do not change." Pattern makers sometimes fix one thing and accidentally move another. Locking what works prevents that. Mark up photos with arrows where something is visual (a pocket that sits too low, a collar that rolls).

When to approve

Approve fit when every POM is within tolerance, it looks right on a body in motion (sit, reach, raise arms), and nothing in the construction bothers you. It doesn't need to be perfect in substitute fabric; it needs to be right in the real fabric.

Approve the PP sample when it matches the approved fit, uses the correct bulk fabric, color, trims and labels, and you'd be happy if 500 of them showed up looking exactly like this. If you wouldn't, don't sign. A delay now is cheaper than a bad bulk order.

Put approvals in writing, with photos and the final spec attached. That's your reference if bulk comes in different.

Red flags

• Round five with no end in sight. If new problems keep appearing that weren't there last round, something is off: unclear specs, a sample room that's not paying attention, or comments that keep changing. Stop and reset: re-confirm the spec, consolidate every open issue into one list and ask for a call.
• Fixed one thing, broke another. Occasionally normal. Every round, it's a quality problem.
• No measurements from the factory. A good sample room sends its own measurement report with the sample. If they never do, they may not be checking.
• The PP sample looks different from the approved fit. Different fabric, trims or measurements at PP without explanation is a warning about bulk.
• Moving target on your side. Be honest with yourself here too. If you're changing the design each round, that's a design phase, not sampling. Lock the design, then sample.

If a factory can't get a simple style right in three or four rounds, it's reasonable to try another. Our factory directory lets you compare factories with verified reviews, including how other brands found their sampling.

The same thing, from the other side of the table

If you run a factory: Clear sampling terms (cost per round, what's included, lead times) win first-time brands who are nervous about open-ended costs. Showing that up front on your profile helps. List your factory on Runsheet with 90 days free.

If you're a consultant or product developer: Plenty of founders need someone to measure samples, write fit comments and manage rounds with the factory. That's a service worth naming on your profile. Listing on Runsheet is free, with no commission.

The short version

1. Proto checks the concept, fit samples fix measurements, salesman samples are for selling, PP is the final check before bulk.
2. One to two fit rounds is typical for simple styles; two to four for structured ones.
3. Expect roughly $50–$400 per sample and 1–4 weeks per round, varying by country and factory.
4. Write fit comments against points of measure, with numbers, and lock what's already right.
5. Approve fit in real fabric; approve PP only if you'd accept 500 just like it.
6. Round five with new problems each time is a signal to reset or switch factories.

Ready to start sampling your first style? Post a free brief and let factories and product developers come to you.